Hello, and welcome to the Reloading Podcast here on the Firearms Radio Network. Tonight the guys are talking about the Reformation and other things.
Subject: Franklin Armory Reformation Straight Rifling bullet and the hand loader
Message: The "straight rifling" in Franklin Armory's Reformation not-a-rifle-not-a-pistol-not-a-shotgun gun and the issues it creates with bullet stability has created a lot of, mostly derisive, commentary since SHOT. It has been observed that standard .223 bullets have a high probability of tumbling due to the standard design of bullets, with more mass to the rear than to the front, and the lack of stabilizing spin imparted.
Franklin Armory's solution is to use the "nerf football" bullet which puts fins at the rear, thus moving the mass to the front of the bullet and the lightweight drag of the fins to the rear. Again, this has prompted a lot of derision, particularly surrounding single-source availability of the bullet.
But I think I might have an idea for an alternative and wanted to get your take on it.
The basis of Franklin Armory's solution is to use a bullet which is drag stabilized instead of spin stabilized. It occurred to me that there are already "bullets," from several different manufacturers, which can achieve the same results. I'm referring to .22 caliber copper-plated air-gun pellets. The skirt on the pellet, along with the hollow base, and sort of pointed, or at least round-nose, design could create enough drag stabilization to prevent tumbling and promote more reasonable accuracy. The skirt on the pellet should expand and allow for a proper seal much the same as the classic Minie Bullet. If not driven with too much pressure, I'm guessing that the copper plate should survive, after all .22LR chamber adapters work well enough in AR's, right?
I can see some possible "gotchas" though. The heaviest .22 cal. copper-plated pellets I could find were 21 grains, way less than the 55 grain .223 bullets. The powder loads and ballistics would have to be figured out. And do you think that their shorter length might make chambering from magazine more likely to fail? How much effect would the shorter bullet, and seating depth, have on accuracy due to jumping the lead?
I'm curious about your thoughts on this. While I've hand-loaded for a handful of cartridges for a few years now, I'm still too new to handloading to feel comfortable undertaking this experiment myself, nor do I have any intention of buying a Reformation, so this is all hypothetical to me.
Reloading shortened 38 special brass
Message: I’ve asked this question before but didn’t get a reply-so I’ll try again.
My friends dad passed away and left me a few guns and reloading stuff-one of the things he left in his shop were 5 gallon buckets of brand new 38 special brass-it appears to never have been fired-but they have all been shortened to right at .75 inches. Can I reload these using a very light 38 special load? I’d like to shoot them out of an S&W mod 10 and a lever rifle in .357. Is it safe? Thanks, M.D
Hey guys. Been listening for a while now and just got off my butt and joined the fb group. Got a quick question. I would like to start reloading for my old martini and have no mentor. ( it’s mostly been iraqveteran8888, abc’s of reloading, and you all.) I have been watching iv88 YouTube as he loads for the martini but one thing is, he usuals a micro lathe to trim the 24 gauge shotshell. I don’t have the $400 to drop on a lathe at this time. Is there any suggestions you have for trimming down the brass? I was thinking of pipe cutter or bandsaw. Am I crazy for thinking this? It’s just for plinking at this time. Any input would be appreciated. I want to do this right and as safely as possible. Jacob
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