Reloading Podcast 168 - is Plus P worth it

Hello, and welcome to the Reloading Podcast here on the Firearms Radio Network.  

Tonight the guys are answering questions about handgun rounds.


  1. I've been enjoying your podcast and have a question. I have been reloading for years, but just started incorporation the use of a chrono this last weekend. I worked up a ladder test of 9mm 124gr FMJ bullets and found with the use of the chrono that I achieve my tightest groups with lowest the standard divination ratings at +P pressures around 1200 FPS out of a 5" barrel. Where do you strike a balance between accuracy and consistency without beating up my guns with +P pressures?

  2. Sirs
    I’m a newbie to reloading and, although I have had a Lee kit for several years, have not yet got my first batch of ammo loaded. My excuses being partly financial and partly family related time constraints; I have four young children. Anyway, I’ve spent the time saving up my pocket money to get bits I need as and when I have the money and, learning. My primary source of education has been your podcast which is excellent; I went back and downloaded all of them, but skipped a few here and there where I felt the subjects were beyond my current needs. I also have one of the A-Z of reloading books and some data. I decided my first caliber would be 10mm auto since I understand that straight walled pistol is easier to start and I figured the production ammo for that is more expensive than for 9mm.
    So, my question is how to find a starting recipie for the powder and bullet. I shot some factory ammo, saved and cleaned the cases, deprimed, resized, and re-primed. I currently have 50 shiny brass cases with fresh primers sitting upside-down in a loading block (I don’t want any junk falling in there while I procrastinate). Since I had no powder nor bullets, I decided to look over various recipes in the data to find common powders and bullets. I had heard you guys talk about Unique a lot, saw that was common in the data, and found a good deal locally. Now, I realize that there are a ton of well known bullet brands for which there is tested, trustworthy data but, being a cheapskate, wanted to go for a less well-known brand like Acme, or Berry’s for example. However, none of these smaller brands seem to be included in the data so, wanted to err on the safe side, I’m buying nothing. I was told by one person that I only really need to worry about the bullet weight and that I could get away with data for my powder and an equivalent bullet. However, in looking through various data sources, I see that there is even variance between different bullets from different manufacture where the weight and powder remain consistent.
    I just want a plan that will keep me safe without spending more than it would cost me to buy factory ammo in the first place and any guidance you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
    Many thanks, George

  3. Hi guys
    I wrote to you a few weeks ago about my primers getting stuck on my decapper and staying in the case.  i did what you suggested with the decapper pin in a drill and spinning it on a stone.  that made the world of difference.   i may get the odd one stick but over all loading is much more easier.
    Just a note it happened a lot more with new once fired cases especially speer and federal.  when i load ones that i have loaded and shot and loaded a gain i have no issues.  must be the hand loaded primers are not in as tight.  
    I also have been powder coating my cast handgun bullets with great success.
    Thanks a gain and keep up the great podcast.




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