Hello, and welcome to the Reloading Podcast here on the Firearms Radio network.
Tonight the guys are talking about Powley computer and a rehash of basics.
Gents, I really enjoy your podcast. I have been reloading for the past 35 years so I am not exactly the noob that I am talking about.
Today I saw a post on Facebook where a shooter was asking the question about what they should use,acquire, seek to begin reloading. That caused me to stop and remember that at one time we were all noobs at reloading. Perhaps a show on what the REAL basics are that you need to get started would be helpful.
My first press is was a Lee hand press that I still use today when I want to do some small batches, deprime, etc when I am just sitting around watching TV or listening to a podcast :)
A discussion on selecting powders is also helpful.
One area that I have not heard discussed is why one powder is better than another. I don't mean the burn rate and pressure but also taking into account the volume of the load in a case. And why maximum volume is desirable (without compressing the powder).
Also a discussion on the correct way to measure case volume would be helpful. Even a discussion on the different brands of brass and their relative case volumes would be interesting.
Finally any resources for calculating pressures and loads would be helpful. I am aware of the one software package out there that does all of this. But I have also heard that some reloading mills use a spreadsheet. Powley Computer
Keep up the good work and let the banter flow.
Been loading auto pistol ammo for a while now so I have become familiar with tapered crimping. Wanted to start reloading .38 but a lot of the plated bullets have no cannelure for a roll crimp. Are the plated bullets soft enough to have a light roll crimp or would that damaged the plate?
I'm using Lee carbide 4 set dies.
Thanks guys for your time making the podcast each week. Greg
Just listened to episode 154 with Gary from Dillon. Good podcast as always, even though I am more of a Hornady fan. Nothing against, Dillon. Just a preference.
Anyway, I heard your letter of the listener with stuck primers that were getting ripped. This happened to me last week while loading 38 SPL for the Dear Wife. Definitely not the result of pressure as they were previously loaded with Lee 358-125 RF over 3.6g of Bullseye. I've NEVER had this happen before, but by the time I got 500 loaded I had to chuck around 60 cases. All Winchester nickel. Previously loaded somewhere between five and 10 times. However, these were Wolf primers. So, the only thing I can think of is a combination of excessive soot in the primer pocket (no, I do not clean primer pockets on pistol brass), cheap primers and maybe a bit of something in the metal from the Wolf primers reacting to the nickel plating. I dunno, but what I do know is I'll be reserving the Wolf primers for my 9mm for matches where I won't be recovering the brass anyway. I did a comparison a couple years ago where I compared the Wolf to CCI-500 with this bullet (powder coated) and Power Pistol with 10 shot groups. The Wolf primers ended up yielding velocities about the same as CCI-500 minus .1g. Meaning 5.1g of powder with Wolf equaled about 5.0g with CCI-500.
At any rate, keep up the good work. And guys, when you are giving Jim a hard time remember- old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill. Trust me. :) Jeff
I just listened to the interview with Gary from Dillon Precision. I just want to encourage anyone with issues to contact them sooner rather than later. I bought my first firearm two years ago. Now I have six guns and reload 9mm, 5.56/.223, and 12 gauge. But regarding Dillon: I bought a super swager from them last May and just crushed case after case. Frustrated I gave up until last week. I called up Dillion and they had me measure the swaging pin. It was a large primer pin. Now why I didn't think to measure it. Geesh. Idiot move. But it was sent from the factory with the small case holding pin and the large primer swage. So for new reloaders who don't know better: CALL for any issues whatsoever. They sent out a correct pin and I swaged all the 556 brass I had gathering in a bucket. Brass prep still sucks. But it's cheaper than therapy. Chris
Hi Mike and company, Brewer Bill here.
Regarding the brass cleaning segment of episode 149, I'd like to add my two cents. I use the wet cleaning method, LSD, (Lemi Shine & Dawn), with stainless steel media in a Thumler's Tumbler. After trying many ways to streamline the process, Lyman came out with a product that has revolutionized my cleaning regimen. It's called the Rotary Tumbler Stainless Steel Pin Media Sifter Set. It is a two piece nesting set into which you pour your clean brass and stainless steel pins. The upper "pan" catches the brass, and the pins fall through into the bottom pan which is made of very fine stainless steel mesh. From that point you can rinse the brass and pins to remove most of the dirty, soapy water, and further separate the brass from the pins. After I finish with this step I place the brass into a rotary separator, (filled with water), and remove the rest of the pins from the brass. The biggest benefit for me is that I only have to fill my media separator once because the brass and pins going into it are already rinsed. The water filled rotary media separator is now just being used to separate the pins from the brass, and not rinse it. I then dry the brass with a cloth and place the brass into a food dehydrator to finish the process. I now have a pile of lonely, unappreciated bowls, colanders, buckets, screens, and separators gathering dust in my basement.
I've also recently switched from the thinner stainless steel pins to the slightly larger diameter ones. The small ones can sometimes wedge two pins into the flash hole.
Keep up the great podcast.
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